Cricova
Cricova is a winery in Moldova, located in the town of the same name north of Chișinău. It is best known for its vast underground galleries, which make it a major tourist attraction and the second largest wine cellar complex in the country, after Milestii Mici.
History
The galleries of Cricova began as limestone quarries in the area. According to available records, excavations under the land date back to the 15th century, when the stone was extracted to help build Chișinău. Over time, the abandoned quarry was gradually used to store wine, and in the 1950s it was turned into a large underground centre for winemaking and storage.
Over time, the facilities expanded. Today half of the underground roadways is used for storage, while the rest holds warehouses, tasting rooms and other facilities. Excavation continues in some branches, so the network is still growing. The temperature stays steady all year round, which suits the ageing of wine.
The winery also houses a historic collection known as the National Oenotec. It preserves old bottles, including a wine from 1902 that is the oldest in the collection, along with wines from regions such as Burgundy, the Mosel, Tokaj and the Rhine. The collection has grown over time and now holds around 1.3 million bottles. Among them are trophies from the Second World War, including wines from the collection of Hermann Göring, whose private cellar was seized by the Soviets, who took part of it to Crimea and the rest to Cricova.
In recent decades the winery has sought markets beyond Moldova. Russia was for years its main export market, but this changed in 2014, when Russia imposed restrictions on Moldovan wines amid Moldova's moves towards the European Union. Since then Kazakhstan has become the largest importer of its wines.
Culture
Cricova is part of Moldova's wine identity, in a country where the vine and wine have deep roots in rural life and household tradition. For many visitors, the winery is the most recognisable image of that culture: a labyrinth of underground streets named after the wines they hold, where a visit combines walking the galleries with tastings in rooms set below ground.
The production includes sparkling wines made using the classic French method, known as méthode champenoise, and a distinctive sparkling red made from cabernet sauvignon grapes and marketed under the name kodrinskoie. This mix of European techniques and local grapes reflects how Moldovan winemaking has engaged for decades with traditions from other countries.
The house's reputation also rests on its awards. By 2008 the wines bearing the Cricova name had collected more than seventy silver, gold and Grand Prix awards in international competitions. These recognitions have helped give Moldovan wines visibility abroad, at a time when wine is an important export for the country's economy.
The cellars have also become a destination for tourists and official delegations, reinforcing their role as a symbol of Moldovan wine. Alongside Cojuşna and Milestii Mici, Cricova is one of the wineries that introduce the country's production to the wider world.
Legend and fact
A popular story holds that in 1966 Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin entered the galleries and came out two days later, with assistance. It is an anecdote passed on informally rather than one documented by reliable sources. Other famous visits sometimes mentioned are not clearly recorded either, so they should be treated with caution.