Chrain

Chrain is a spicy paste made from grated horseradish, commonly served with meat and fish across Ashkenazi Jewish cooking and much of Central and Eastern Europe, including Russia. The name means "horseradish" in the Slavic languages and in Yiddish.

History

Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana) is a perennial plant of the mustard family, probably native to southeastern Europe and western Asia. It has been cultivated since antiquity, and writers such as Dioscorides and Pliny the Elder described it, mainly for its medicinal properties. During the Middle Ages it was used in folk medicine, and over time its grated root became a condiment for meat in Germany, Scandinavia and Britain.

Jewish communities in Eastern Europe adopted it centuries ago, and early records of its use survive. In modern times chrain is most closely associated with gefilte fish, for which it is considered an essential accompaniment. As it spread across the continent, each region adapted it with its own ingredients.

Culture

Two basic versions appear in Jewish and Slavic kitchens. White chrain combines grated horseradish with vinegar, and sometimes sugar and salt; red chrain adds beetroot, which gives it its colour. Because it contains no dairy, it is considered pareve and can be served with both meat and dairy meals under Jewish dietary rules. In Central Europe cream is often added, while some Russian recipes use smetana. Versions with apple, cranberry or orange also exist.

Chrain accompanies fish dishes such as gefilte fish and meat and fish zakuski such as kholodets or beef tongue. In Russia and Ukraine it is part of everyday tables and celebrations, and in Jewish tradition its root also appears at Passover.