Hokkien mee

Hokkien mee is a family of related Southeast Asian noodle dishes rooted in the cooking of Fujian (Hokkien), a province in southern China. The name means "Fujian noodles" in Southern Min, and the dishes are most common in Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia. The name covers quite different preparations, so the local meaning often depends on where you are eating.

History

The dishes are thought to descend from lor mee, a braised noodle staple of Fujianese cooking. The versions known today, however, were developed in Southeast Asia rather than in Fujian itself, shaped by Chinese migration to the region.

In Singapore, the fried version is said to have been created after the Second World War by Fujianese sailors who, after working at noodle factories along Rochor Road, fried the surplus noodles over charcoal stoves. The dish later spread through the city's hawker stalls.

In Kuala Lumpur, hokkien char mee is associated with the hawker chef Ong Kim Lian, who cooked it on Petaling Street in 1927. Soup versions, such as Penang's, are known for their rich prawn and pork broth.

Culture

In Singapore, fried hokkien mee is served with sambal and calamansi limes, which diners squeeze in to add tang and heat. Some stalls serve it on an areca leaf for extra fragrance, and fried pork lard cubes remain a traditional addition.

In Penang, the prawn broth is the defining feature, with egg and rice noodles, prawns, pork, boiled egg and kangkung. A dry version, seasoned with vinegar, soy sauce and chilli, is also available. In Kuala Lumpur, hokkien char mee is traditionally cooked over a hot charcoal fire.

Today the dish is a everyday part of hawker culture and of the culinary identity of the region's Chinese communities, and several Singaporean stalls selling it have been recognised by the Michelin Guide.